Timeless craft, industrial power
Nottingham Local Studies, part of Nottingham City Libraries, preserves a wealth of artefacts that illustrate how the lace craft became an industry central to the British Empire's growth.
Nottingham lace was admired by royalty and central to the city's identity. Source: Picture Nottingham
If you visit Nottingham youâll see how lace has been woven through the city for generations.
That relationship is shown through documents, photographs and other artefacts preserved by Nottingham Local Studies.Â
What started as a hand-woven craft became a global industry as the British Empire spread. And you might be surprised by the extent to which it helped shape the Nottingham of the 21st century.Â
St. Mary's Gate, in the Lace Market area, still bears lace motifs today. Source: Richard Hoare on Geograph CC BY-SA 2.0
Lace Charmaine was an elegant style of lace created by Nottingham company Simon May & Co. Source: Nottingham Local Studies
Fine lace has been valued as an intricate textile for centuries. Its increasing popularity ran alongside Britainâs rise to prominence as a leader of the industrial revolution.
Nottingham became the centre of the explosion of lace, renowned for innovation and links to global commerce â as well as the brutality and class division that often powered heavy industry.
The contrast between delicate finery and the harshness of its means of production was an early characteristic of lace, and it would remain so as the textileâs popularity spread.
Textiles were a big driver of the industrial revolution: steam-powered machinery in factories increased demand for coal and iron. And the need to transport goods for longer distances led to the growth of canals and railways.
Lace tablecloths decorated the dining rooms of society's well-to-do. Source: Picture Nottingham
The lace craft is thought to have arrived in Britain in the 16th century. In the 1700s âlace schoolsâ emerged, the name disguising the fact that these were often little more than workhouses where children as young as five would be put to work.
The craft at this time was primarily around bobbin lace. Thread would be wound around wooden bobbins, and then woven around pins that were inserted into a template design.
The more sophisticated the design, the more time it took. It wasnât unusual for laceworkers to toil 12 hour days in dim, cold conditions that would have lasting health implications.
Such conditions were sadly consistent with the origins of the fabric with which they were working. By the end of the 18th century, most cotton used in textile manufacturing was a result of the labour of enslaved people in British colonies such as the West Indies and the United States.
Source: Wikimedia
The bobbin-net machine, invented in 1808 by John Heathcote, saw machinery used in lace-making for the first time. But its impact was dwarfed by the dawn of steam-powered machinery. Suddenly, huge machines could create lace at scale.
And so, Nottingham became known for producing not only lace, but the heavy machinery required to create it.
Emerging markets in France, Germany, the USA and South America saw a surge in demand for the cityâs manufacturing expertise.
Not everyone was happy about the emergence of machinery. The Luddite riots began in 1811 in Nottinghamshire, and soon spread to neighbouring counties. They were led by handicraftsmen upset at their livelihoods being threatened.
Lace was a status symbol for societyâs well-to-do. But the work that went into creating it could be punishing and very poorly-paid, and left many workers with long-term health problems.Â
One of the most common ailments people suffered was poor eyesight. Sitting in dimly-lit factories finishing garments by hand meant many workers â often women â found their vision failing, at a time before eyeglasses were widely available.Â
Another effect factory workers suffered was curvature of the spine, due to the long hours and poor posture their work required.Â
Most lace joiners â or 'finishers' â were female. Source: Picture Nottingham
In 1973, a Nottinghamshire newspaper ran an essay competition in which it asked readers for their stories of working in the lace industry.
Nottingham Central Library retains many of these entries, which now act as invaluable first-hand accounts of the lives of factory workers.
Want to learn more about Nottinghamâs fascinating history of lace? Lisa Hopwood, a Local Studies Specialist Advisor for Nottingham City Libraries, provides a shortlist of books for you explore.
Felkinâs History of the Machine-wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufactures
William Felkin
1967
Long considered the âgo-toâ book for anyone wanting a complete history of the lace and textile industry in Nottingham during the 19th century.
Employment of Children
Childrenâs Employment Commission 1842
An interesting though grim read for anyone wanting to know more about the social history of the lace industry.
Century of Achievement 1849-1949: The Simon May Story
Simon, May & Co. Limited
1949
One of Nottinghamâs lace companies reflects on its centenary in business, during which the cityâs lace became popular worldwide.
Nottingham Museums
The Lace Guild
University of Nottingham
Visit Nottinghamshire
bbc.co.uk archive
V21 Artspace
Nottingham City Museums
Thanks to Nottingham Local Studies, part of Nottingham City Libraries, for preserving the materials that help stories like these to be told.
